Speeding South

Wed 25 April Betta to Konkiep Lapa 153km Left from camp promptly this morning. About 7am again. Before sun rose. Wasn't keen to get on the bike, and apprehensive what today would bring. I bumped into Steph coming out the Bathroom and we exchanged our expectations for the day. She thought it would be easier than our 'toughest day', the day before, I thought it would be the same/harder but even further...time would tell. The sun rose over my left shoulder as I picked a line along the C Road. The first 10km were pretty straight forward, a slight downhill (you would only know if your bike computer showed elevation) and generally hard pack and smooth. Once again a similar pattern to yesterday. Anton overtook and Alistair caught up. The directions had said that he first 50km would be tough, due to road conditions, and then it would improve. It was uphill to 70km, then downhill to camp. In reality it was only the first 25km that were unfavourable. The road was better than most of the sections we cycled yesterday, there were short sections of corrugations - maybe a km max, interspersed with smoother regions, or sand. We reached a small intersection with a couple of buildings, and some cacti in an enclosure (almost like a netball court fence) and this is where the road changed. It was almost like concrete, but hard back dirt, with a dusting of...dust. We picked up speed over the undulations. David overtook us too. He was cycling pretty quick today. The scenery was changing again. We dropped down into greenery, proper greenery (as opposed to parched grass) and plains. We traversed the plains, which reminded me of the farm, Scotland and Rural Finland all at the same time. Then the climbing began, up and out the valley. I like the climbing, and even the dirt as it is a lot less boring than straight tar. We ascended at a pace, catching Maurice and Anton. This region was like the Scottish Highlands, it reminded me of walking to the radio mast at Grandma's. Just before lunch there was a Social Weaver Nest. We almost cycled past it, but Anton was pulled up. I thought he was going for a pee, and then we noticed the tree and nests! A quick lunch and then back on the bikes. Hoping for good quality roads the rest of the way we set off in a good mood. Alistairs wheel wasn't spinning true, a few lose spokes which needed tightening. We pulled over for about 15mins of maintenance, during which Jenna and Maurice overtook us again. It is amazing how much the countryside and climate changes in a few hundred kms. There was a 4km sandy stretch with a crosswind which provided a short interlude to the downhill and tailwind which we were enjoying. I was rather resentful of this section, and appreciated when the road turned right again through Helmeringhausen. Helmeringhausen even taunted us with a short stretch of tar. We arrived at camp 6 hours riding the after leaving this morning. That's 2h55mins less than yesterday! It was a basic camp- with toilets, hot water and some small chalets. Clothes have been drying super quick over the last few days - the strong winds and warm sun are ideal. And the lack of humidity. Although it has also given my scaly lizard skin and cracked hands. Great for washing cycling gear overnight. Dinner and riding meeting at six meant there was a lot of time to kill. The usual crew went to the bar. I am feeling a bit people'd out at the moment. Something to do with having spent three and a half months in intense company, maybe. Babotie from Errol. A Sputh African cottage pie type thing, bust baked scrambled egg on top instead of potato. Peanut butter cabbage to accompany I think. Surrounded by snorers overnight. Not ideal. Both Maurice and Bill. Thurs 26 April. Konkeip Lapa to Seeheim. 127km 32km on dirt and then a respite! Was cold start. Cloudless sky and moving south to winter. The sun feels lower in the sky, shadows are getting longer and the sunlight less intense. I had my jacket on this morning too. There was a coffee shop at Bethanie, where the tar started, so Jenna, Steph and I left together...at my request....I wanted some company to stop with :) I missed the coke stop yesterday afternoon- good Apfelstrudel and coffee apparently. Namibia is interspersed with ApfelStrudel stops- must be the European influence. The coffee shop was everything I wanted and more. There was wifi, and if that didn't work there was 3G mobile coverage!, coffee (not filter), cake, and ATM and a little shop. The town even had a rugby pitch and two churches! The most civilisation since Windhoek. Pretty much all the riders stopped, for anything from 5mins to over an hour. Luxury in the desert. The others left before me, I tuned into a BBC Documentary podcast about C Sections in Brazil (sobering but one sided representation) and started pedalling. Lunch was around 70km. I realised once again how bored I get on the flat, straight tar. For the first time I decided I would push it to lunch, for entertainment value. I actually impressed myself, managing to overtake Steph and Jenna, Agnes and Erin, Maurice and Alistair. Alistair jumped on my wheel for the last 7km. After lunch I tagged along with Steph and Jenna. We were all feeling pretty tired. It was nice to have some company. We ascended slowly into a headwind. At one point we passed a sign for a motor camp...108km away! Who sign posts accomodation that far away, clearly attractions are so few and far between that a 216km detour is justified. Jenna and Steph are strong and pulled me into camp. This camp was a farmhouse camp- there were two pet cows which drank out of the swimming pool, cockerels which talked to the large billy goat, and two border collies and a terrier type thing. We camped on the terraces. Best wifi in a while, and a short day, we were all in the bar (and the remainder were in the pool) communicating with the outside world. I pictured my tent near a metal windmill, which provided a good view over the camp. I was in bed early, having talked to Harriet for a bit after dinner. There was a contingency in the bar and the rest were on their phones. Friday 27 April; Seeheim to Canon Resthouse 93km Short day today. Started with a steep climb as the sunrise and then 29km of an F (yes, F!!, road). Once again was riding at about the same speed as Alistair for the 70km to lunch. Really enjoyed the first 30km, cycling through deep sand, picking a route through corrugations, and crossing dried river beds and a deep dried stream cutting too. The remaining 40k were on a road similar to that for the latter part of Wednesday. I got bored. It was mind numbing again- having to just get the head down and pedal towards the horizon. Not tar but smooth enough, and smoother than some tar roads! Passed another Apfelstrudel house. As It was just Alistair and I, we didn't stop. Tom had stopped. He said the Cafe was owned by a German couple. They own about 55000 hectares of farmland. Having only had 52mm of rain in the yearthey are unable to farm it. Apparently they need over 100mm to graze cattle. Tallis and Steph were on lunch. Had a brief stop as only a short ride left. Cruised the last 27km slowly, just enjoying wheee I was...and feeling tired. Arrived at the Canon Guesthouse before the dinner truck- got stuck at the riverbed crossing. Didnt have to wait long though. Nice camp but expensive and has the monopoly in terms of trips to the nearby Canyon, and rooms. This did mean that everyone was camping- not just the regulars. It was over 150usd for a room for one night. Even Don was camping- we pitched our tents far away, in hope of deterring snorers. Tom organised a shuttle for 12 of us to Fish River Canyon, which is the largest Canyon in Africa. It is 160km long, up to 27km wide and 550m deep at its deepest. Having come to Namibia and been staying 30km away from it, it seemed silly not to make an effort to see it. There was the option to try and hitch but I was too tired mentally to consider attempting so agreed to the extortionate 75us to go to two viewpoints. The cost of convenience! Considering two vehicles went past the hotel, in the direction of the canyon, in an hour, and there were 15 of us wanting to go, atleast some people would have had to pay for a trip. Steph, Mo and Jenna managed to hitch a ride, but not sure they would have been so lucky if there had been more people trying! It was quite a fun trip. We traveled the dirt road on open air trucks. You hardly Even notice the corrugations! People in vehicles like this have no idea how lucky they are! So much more comfortable than the constant shaking on he bike, it must do something to the optic nerve too as when you ride over the corrugations on a bike, you see flashing lights. The Canyon itself provided nice views but I wouldn't describe it as spectacular. From a geological perspective it is fascinating. Tom was pointing out the stratification and translating the slumping of the rock for us, explaining how it indicated a fault line. I never really appreciated Geology as a degree, and couldn't understand why someone would spend 3 years learning about rocks, however I have a new appreciation and respect for the subject after this trip. Tom's days on the bike are likely more entertaining when he can look around and interpret the geological nature of the surroundings. After about an hour, and a photo shoot at he two viewpoints we returned to camp. Canon Resthouse is eccentric (of a guesthouse can be?!). It is decorated with inside and out with old cars, car parts and signs. I think it's somewhere my grandad would have found interesting. It did have a bit of an American diner feel to it. Interesting and worth a stop of in the area! In the two hours we had been away, Don and I returned to find a snorer had pitched in the vicinity. Only 7 days left and then this won't be a concern. I tried hard not to let it grate on me, especially as yesterday I managed to Aquire two snoring bodies as neighbours too. Carbonara and ice cream from Errol for dinner. Most people had an early night, I think the night before had been alcohol fuelled for many! Tallis warned us, again, of another tough day. 171km, 127 on dirt and the last with a headwind. TdA just keep throwing stuff at us!