The 'real' Africa
We have had two days cycling since leaving Luxor, and have made it to Aswan. The last two days have been really enjoyable, a lot more interesting than the previous cycling. We have moved away from the Red Sea, and the tourist towns, into the more rural Egypt. The Nile has flanked our route for the last 200km.
Every evening we have a rider meeting in which we are told the route, and any other important information regarding the next 24 hours. The route description consists of a list of km markers and directions associated with that km, many people take a picture of the white board on their phone.
I do this, but also have a little notebook in my frame bag - which is easier to read and more accessible than my phone. For the first time our rider meeting warned of 'kids throwing stones', and 'sugar cane region' (i.e. watch for donkeys towing sugar cane, and kids hitting you with sugar cane'. 'Ride in groups with woman in the centre of the group'.
With nervous trepidation we hit the road yesterday morning. The Steam Train left in cloud of dust, Alistair, Dylan, Ahmed, David, Jenna and I relished to time to enjoy the scenery. The road conditions and number of pedestrians dictated a slower pace, although the tail wind made for a very pleasant morning. We passed through numerous small villages as we left the city and entered rural Egypt. It was a relief that all the villagers were very friendly and welcoming 'Hello, hello, what is your name?', 'Welcome, welcome' were the cries that followed us along the river.
We stopped for lunch by the Nile. On the shorter days lunch falls between 9.30 and 10am (60-70km mark).
While not hungry, the great selection and colourful spread that Ryan provides always entices. Falafel, strawberries and pita bread yesterday. Tuna, leftover pasta and watermelon today. We have been warned that the meals will become repetitive as we move down, so far this hasn't been the case. Word on the street that the average participant loses between 10-15kg over the tour, for me I think it was be a gain! Mind you, the main demographic seems to be middle aged retired men, rather than 20-35 year old females!
After lunch we were sandwiched between the Nile and a heavy railway. The railway reminded me of a story called The Train to Rhodesia. The track ran along the road, with decrepid shacks and bare platforms intermittently spread along. The shacks were occupied by men smoking and drinking tea, and the odd child. The banks of the Nile are a great source of crops, and very green, the road seems to divide the fertile banks of the Nile and the desert. Such a sharp transition from one to the other.
We passed through industrial type towns, with mechanical shops - the looked like they did car repairs and alternated multiple tea rooms (open fronted buildings with plastic chairs and many men aggregated, often smoking shish), and open fronted shops selling crisps, beverages and packaged sticky cakes/biscuits. Fresh bread is ubiquitous. Every village has at least two bakery type establishments. The pita bread goes in an automated kiln (a bit like the pizza oven we used when I worked at Pizza Hut), pops out the other side and is loaded onto a tray to be displayed on a table out the front.
The warm bread is so soft and tasty. One town we went through had a group of 15 women dressed in full length black hi jabs and burkas gathered around a small window. They were all buying bread.
I did manage to send a Snapchat video of the team cycling along the Nile, how many times in your life can you do that? #newagecycletouring
We arrived in camp pretty early, on the outskirts of a town called Idfu. We were camping in a public park, at a t junction between some main roads.
Having got excited about 'real toilets', we reevaluated our definition when the real toilet was a hole in the ground with a cubicle. No showers meant a wet wipe wash and then change of clothes. There was a hose in the toilet, which locals use instead of toilet paper. Apparently on of our group was caught nievely using this for a shower! Great speculation as to who...
Idfu reportedly had a big temple, so a group of us trekked into the town to find the temple. Alistair and Googlemaps led the way, it was a lot further than anticipated - at least an hour of walking and we found ourselves at one of the least frequented tourist attractions in Egypt. We were the only ones there, and got a guided tour around the 5 stalls, selling sun bleached clothing that had probably been hanging there for the last 5 years. Very much felt like a tumbleweed situation!
Frank, Marty, Jenna, Dylan and I forwent to the temple, and made our way back to camp. Through the back streets and residential area. There does appear to be plumbing in the towns, but not to the houses, rather to 'public water points'. The look a bit like metal vending machines, two taps with water. Some of the places we cycled through had 3-6 terracotta urns in what looked like bus shelters. Ahmed explained that these are water points.
Frank needed a new phone screen, and found someone that would do it for 200Egyptian points. We went an sat in a tea room, while he got his phone sorted. They led us into the back room, and showed us two benches covered with carpet. They put the tv on for us - football - offered us Shisha, and took our order.
Tea here is called 'chai' and served with sugar, no milk. The coffee is expresso, and milk costs 15-35c more. Considering the espresso is only 70c, I can afford the milky surcharge.
Dylan provided snacks in the form of banana and fig pastries from the bakery, and some fresh pita.
Frank also picked up some crisps, cooked right in front of him. Crisps and bread, literally less than 5 minutes old!
Slept pretty well last night, considering the camp location. Was woken this morning by a loud chorus of calls to prayer, which seems to resonate for at least half an hour. A bit different to listening to the Radio One Breakfast Show!
Today was another relaxed day, only 100km. We made it to Aswan by 11.30.
Running water at this camp, not warm and more of a trickle than running. The 'shower' was over the public toilet, and the floor looks like it hasn't been cleaned since the place was built. It's amazing what pleasure running water can bring though! I managed to wash my hair, and my clothes.
Two more days cycling, and then Egypt is done and we cross the border to Sudan. The next two days are both pretty long - around 150km. The group has split a bit over the last 5 days. Previously we had our 'fast but enjoy the view' crew. A few people have jumped to the Steam Train, and a few people are sticking and recovering. I am enjoying the more casual pace, and not being preoccupied with speed, however i feel with the increase in distance tomorrow there may be a few more group transitions made! I haven't yet cracked out the iPod, but tomorrow maybe the solo cycle day that I do.
Saddle sores not too bad. Been developing knee pain on the inside of my knee caps, so will have to monitor this. Jenna is suffering from a swollen achilles, and has been battling through for the last week. Every morning she has vowed to rest in the afternoon, and every afternoon she gets back on the bike. Not sure I would so dedicated through the pain.
