Rest week

I am really enjoying the cycling in Ethiopia. The hills and scenery, and smooth roads. The temperature in the mornings has so far been comfortable, and as long as you start early enough to finish Mid-afternoon then the heat isn't too intense either. My body appreciated the two rest days after our 6 day stint. It took about 24hours for my saddle chaffage to become less inflamed. I just have one problem area on the bike, I must ride at an angle as it doesn't affect both sides! The skin doesn't break but it becomes quite red and almost swollen. Before coming in the trip I was really worried about saddle sores, cycling this much I didn't really think there was much to do to prevent them, nor did I know if you I get them or not. During my reading, it sounded like boils were a pretty common manifestation of saddle sores. This is what I worry my inflamed area will turn in to if I do t look after it! Although I'm not sure of the progression, or if that's likely. As soon as I get to camp I change my shorts, before even sitting down or putting up the tent. I think loose fitting bottoms for as long as possible between rides optimises skin recovery time and will hopefully prevent redness turning into infection. The second rest day most of us had decided to have as a 'true rest day' - catching up on life admin and just having a relaxed day. I spent the morning doing that, packing my permenant bag up again, making phone calls home and I looked up flights for the end of the trip. I didn't book a return flight before I left because I wasn't sure if I would make it to Cape Town or not! Now I think there is more chance that I will get there, be it in the bike or on the truck. :) Yesterday a group of people went to the Debre Birhan Sissine (I think) church. They gave it rave reviews, so I felt I couldn't leave Gondar without seeing it. Everyone was busy, time to venture out by myself. I do have to dare myself to walk there, but actually really enjoy it when I'm out. It was 4km walk through town.

Not very obvious, and I did go past one of the turns I was meant to make. I passed a supermarket (small shop with many household items and packaged food) where I bought some nice looking toilet roll (I am a toilet roll snob, and this false economy hotel paper just doesn't cut it). The woman and what appeared to be her boyfriend at be counter where lovely and got excited when I thanked them in Amharic, their English was good too, so I showed hem the name of where I was going and they explained I was going in the wrong direction. I proceeded to walk off without my purse, and the girl then chased me down the road. The church was a stone thatched building, at the top of a hill with clay houses and tin roofs all around. It looked quaint but non descript from the outside.

I walked up the stairs to go through the front entrance...and was shouted at and directed to the side of the building (the woman's entrance). Inside was amazing. It actually reminded my of the Sistine Chapel. All the walks were painted in a series of motifs, depicting stories from the bible. The ceiling was painted with faces looking in all directions. The colours used were those of the Ethiopian flag. 

The inside of the wall beneath where the motifs started were made of mud and straw. There was on old man sitting with two younger locals, teaching them religion and pointing at the motifs. It was a very humbling place. I also went for a walk around town. The town centre is small and straightforward. Mostly centred around a roundabout. It was busy but not heaving. There was still space for a man to walk his sheep down he road, in between the buses and tuktuks, it looked like he was stopping at butchers and restaurants trying to sell them. 

I did pass a man with a freshly killed sheep hanging from a tree on the t junction by a butchers. He was just starting to skin it. They sell alcohol on the shelves beside the baby wipes, insect spray and other dried goods. Wine and spirits. 

I learnt more Amarhic on my jaunt: Buna - coffee

Dabo - bread Gonjo - beautiful

Ishi - ok The locals love it when you speak Amharic to them. Booked a flight in the evening. Internet was too slow and kept timing out, but was able to ring mum at home and she filled in the online booking while I was telling her the details. Technology is amazing! Back on the bike today. An easy day. It's funny how perspective handed. Previously 115km would have been a long ride, a whole day. Now cycling 100km is the equivalent of what a 40km cycle would be - mentally atleast, if not physically. I cycled with Anton who was still feeling a bit weak after having been sick for a few days. It was a really nice ride. We took it easy, I was in no rush. We weren't too hastled by kids. There were the occasional stone throwers, chasers, pushers and stick wielders, but no major incidents. It is very wearing the incessant demand for money, and pens. 

There must have been some positive reinforcement somewhere down the line. Steph, one of the few members, thinks it was missionaries and tourists 15 odd years ago, giving things out. Hindsight would have been great- a centralised distruburion may have prevented this expectation that now exists. If you don't provide what they ask for, then they get angry and throw things. How long will it take to undo the conditioning? At 91km there was a small coffee shop. A woman and her sister were running it. We ordered coffee: they roast the beans, grind them and serve the coffee, along with frankincense.

The woman must have been late twenties and had atleast two kids 10 years old. She had a lovely smile. Most of the woman here seem to, their face lights up when they smile. Camp is in a field, views not quite as good as the farm camp the other day. Atleast the ground is smoother, so I shouldn't be wedged in between clods if dirt tonight. Putting up my tent was once again a spectator sport, this time to a symphony of 'you. You. You. Money. Money. You, money.' I have already slipped into he non responsive, ignore phase. If they even said hello first, their pleas may be more successful! First night with a toilet tent too. That is a hole in the ground worth a tent. Given the number of people that have suddenly developed gastro-bugs since our arrival in Ethiopia, I am sure this toilet tent will not be a welcome addition to camp. I think digging a private hole, which hasn't been previously frequented by 10 other people with upset stomachs, is much more pleasant...even if the funny. Lose from behind you turns out to be a goat watching round the corner! A 60km day to Bahir Dar tomorrow.