Border Dash
Tues 6 March
Another semi-dry nights sleep, and tent was dry apart from one corner - thanks to camping under the shelter. The shelter did take on a slumber party feel. Initially just David, Jenna and I with lots of space, the grand total was 8 tents under the canopy. It is funny how rules of personal space and camping etiquette appear to be lost when cramming for dry tent pitches. It also strikes me as ironic that we buy tents to keep us dry and sheltered from the rain, and then look for somewhere covered to use them.
For some reason we were very efficient at packing this morning. I managed everything away by 5.45, and even had time for a cup of tea and to wash my bike. Highlight of the morning was Eggy bread for breakfast. We thought it was Errol's contribution (the new chef), but I later discovered that Errol is sick (suspected Malaria) and so Tallis delivered the goods. Normally breakfast is either porridge, scrambled egg, bread or a seed/cornflake mix...two months and today we had a change. It is the little things in life.
We had a quick 3km cycle to the border. Unlike the previous crossings, this road and border didn't have the usual unsettled/transient/promiscuous preamble. In fact yesterday afternoon, and this morning provided very pleasant cycling. There was cloud hanging over the hills, and rain was in the air but there were patches of blue sky. Endless open space, greenery, and enough small towns/villages to provide some alternative interest. And smooth tar.
The border itself was very coherent and well presented. Checking out of Kenya, and into Tanzania was all in one building. About 30 of us were processed within an hour, including two vehicles. Kenya scans finger prints and takes pictures when you leave. Not convinced it's a monitored process as Neil had his fingers bandaged up and they scanned them and accepted it. There is no way finger prints would be visible through a cm of bandaging materials?? There were also locals st the border with car tyre shoes and machetes!
Back on the road. There was no sudden change as there had been at previous borders. The scenery, road quality and elevation remained similar to the afternoon of the day before.
The Party Bus cruised together to lunch. We rode in a peloton formation, averaging about 25km/h - pretty quick given there was a slight incline too. David has a habit of accelerating when he gets to the front, rather than keeping a consistent speed, not appreciated! I burned out about 10km from lunch and called a drink/food stop, before we rode the rest a lot slower and free form.
There was a 400m climb over 10km following lunch. David had decided he would blast it, but Jenna, Alistair and I had a relaxed ride. It wasn't as challenging as I had been anticipating. I could have gone for a coke stop at one of the towns, but we had not had the opportunity to get cash out yet so we pressed on. I am glad my strength has come back, and resentment gone, as I have enjoyed the last two days of cycling more than the struggle last week.
We had a cycling companion - a boy in red, on a matching red bike - who joined us for a couple of km before we lost him when the road took a turn downhill. Downhill to Arusha! It felt like we were cycling into the eye of the storm. Behind us the clouds were light grey and high in the sky, ahead there was an iron grey hue and the sky was darkening. The wind was rising. There was a nervous anticipation in the air. The electricity was palpable.
Driven by the atmosphere we pounded down the hills for the last 30km. Raindrops taunted us intermittently for an hour. The faster I cycled the less wet I would get, maybe the raindrops would miss me?! Really I was just trying to get to camp before the heavens really opened. Alas it was not to be. About 15mins away from camp the downpour began. We were saturated in no time at all. I was behind Alistair and Jenna, and the mud spray from the back wheel coated my glove and left arm. This is quite fun, I tried to persuade myself. The longer it went on for, and the harder it got, the less and less I was able to convince myself of the joys of riding in the rain.
The directions were off for the first time of the trip. The flagging tape was hard to find. Eventually we turned right off the main road. Torrents of brown water were turning the streets into rivers. We had no idea how far it was left, as the distances were wrong. We headed down a hill.
'I was going to wash these clothes anyway, it doesn't matter that they are saturated.' 'I am so cold, I hope they have hot water.' 'Im going to have to pitch a tent in the rain, and lie in my damp sleeping bag, with a damp floor, and no opportunity to dry out.' 'This is life in Africa, this is life for the next 6 weeks.'
I hadn't reached a dark place, but was not in a happy place. I pulled over at the start of a downhill to check we were going in the right direction. The lady at the chicken grill said 200m on the right - hallelujah!
We pulled into the gate, signed in with Steph and I made a dash for reception. David was there trying to book the last room - a triple or a quad. There was a unanimous consensus that we would take it. Those who cycle together, now sleep together. All four of us, wet and cold, and he insisted we paid for the room before we got showered and changed. He then took Alex off to show her where her room was. Then started trying to do Neal's washing - I jumped in with, can you wait? We are all cold and need to get changed!
There was hot water! Albeit inconsistent. Apparently when asked if they could switch the hot water on, they went and lit a fire under the tank. Anyhow, I was happy. The shower was a drip, but there was a tap at hip height. I sat under the tap in my cycling clothes to warm up.
The afternoon was spent organising bags, cleaning bikes in the shower, and sorting wet stuff.
The others are off on a three day safari to the Serengeti and 6.30am tomorrow. I have opted for a one night, two and a half day, trip to Ngorogoro Crater. I considered for a long time which one to day, or if i should go to Zanizbar for these 3 days. I opted for Ngorogoro after our Omo Valley trip. While I enjoyed Omo Valley, 3 long days of driving, and constant company was draining, and deterred me from repeating. I have also done a little bit of safari previously, and am planning on doing one down in Kruger, so it seemed a good compromise. I am still happy with the decision.
We went for a jaunt up the road, to get cash out. Had something to drink at a street cafe - proper thick cut chips, and some grilled chicken. I was desirous of coffee - the purpose of my folly - but they only served coke and beer. I settled for a beer, pleasing but not the same as Ethiopia's ubiquitous caffeinated nectar!
I am feeling pretty stiff this afternoon. Walking is more uncomfortable than cycling. I have developed shin splints. Yes, shin splints. Yes, from cycling. From what I understand it's because i have been lowering my heel too much during the pedal stroke (which I was consciously doing to try and stretch my sore calf!). I am not making a concerted effort to pedal in a circle with my toe pointing down slightly.
Right, off to bed in our Party Bus dorm. Jenna is awol at the bar playing pool, glad I'm warm and dry in a tent.
