The sun can shine in Tanzania: Singida to game post 1
Mon 12th March
Had a great night sleep last night! After struggling to fit my tent in the doorway of a building. It did fit, once I had taken a pole out and collapsed two sides of it. I was also next to Marty, nicknamed the Water Buffalo because of his snoring, I can confirm this is a suitable name. I have never heard someone snoring so loud! Luckily it was only for an hour in the middle of the night. Anyhow, keeping the tent dry trumps being away from snorers. I was feeling pretty good this morning, considering my feelings during the day yesterday I was in high spirits. Errol has invested in wheatabix too (I may already have mentioned this) and so I am enjoying my wheatabix plus muesli for breakfast. And not even wanting Nutella. We were second last to leave. I was reading out advice on riding through sand, in preparation for the day ahead, when I looked up the Steam Train were moving out, closely followed by everyone else. David decided to pump up his tyres too, a standard David pre-departure hold up. I insisted on a group photo before we left, a clean group before the next 4 days of off road cycling and bush camping.
Only 133km today. On Tarmac until 90, and then dirt tracks to camp. 420m climbing, 700m down. It was raining when we left and so I had my jacket on. If I was coming again I would suggest bringing a light/packable rain jacket for the bike and a good one for camp. I am really happy with my jacket but to fit it in the frame bag means I sacrifice any spare space, and snack and sunglasses room. My waterproof makes me happy, so I am happy to sacrifice. Wrong turn at a roundabout, but we realised after 200m so no dramas! Just amusement. The roads were quiet apart from tuk tuks cutting across and not indicating. We passed more rock formations, fields of sunflowers, corn fields and lots of kids in uniform walking, and even cycling!, to school.
The difference between the previous two days (Sat and Sunday) and today was interesting. People dressed differently, yesterday they were wearing Sunday best for church - and we passed a few churches with singing emanating. I had thought the stone formations were sandstone, at closer inspection they were granite.
It was a rolling descent to lunch. We stopped at 40km for a coke stop. It had the coffee I have been searching for since Ethiopia! Even complete with leering men, and minimal women.
There was no sugar though, and the coffee came from a flask rather than freshly brewed, but better than the absent coffee of the last week. And next door was a lady making fresh chapatis. One for 300shillings-15cents! She must have made her weekly income in an hour- atleast 12 of us stopped there!
Sophie's dad, Steve, cycled with us for the rest of the day. He was good company, kept pace with us (and we were going pretty quick) and relaxed. He had obviously done some group cycling before as he was relaxed in the scenario and being in close proximity to others. As we approached the lunch stop we started passing roadside stalls - wooden shelves with oil/petrol bottle type things and a golden fluid inside them, manned by a person in a plastic chair. I couldn't understand why so many people were selling oil/petrol, I have now been informed it was locally produced honey. Lunch was busy, the easy terrain and blue skies were meaning that we were all a similar pace. Tanzania and Kenya have also provided some amazing mangoes. As soon as we left south Ethiopia the mangoes became huge, juicy and not stringy. 10km after lunch we turned right onto the dirt.
Having been sunny all day, the dirt was firm and smooth. It was actually better than some sections of Tarmac we have ridden on, and was easier riding than the day into Konso in Ethiopia. There were a few corrugated sections, but on the whole we could cycle at 20-25km/h (slight downhill). It's amazing the difference that picking the wrong route can make to your speed. It is a road, there were a few lorries, motorbikes and trucks that passed. We also cycled through a few small towns. Essentially we are cycling along the West border of Ruaha National Park. I got a bit left behind from the main group. We weren't riding at an easy pace, but we weren't riding at race pace- riding with purpose is how I describe it. If I had been by myself I would have been slower, which is probably why I dropped a bit. I am glad I had a better day, but am tired and slower than the others. Also suffering again with saddle pain, it feels like my bum is in shreds! Doesn't bode well for another 4 days, and on uneven surfaces! Arrived at camp at about 2pm. There were bucket showers :)
While cycling I had been trying to workout how much I would pay a local for a bucket of water. I thought 1000sings (50cents) seemed reasonable. I was right, that's how much they were charging. I hastily put up my tent, decided it was unlikely to rain while I was in the shower, and sped of. I am becoming adept at washing my hair in a bucket, and using a sponge to wash the rest of me. Just as I was drying myself the rain started. I had left everything outside of my tent, so I rushed back to cover everything, including the open skylight on the tent! It was just a short shower. It has actually been amazing weather today, blue skies and less humid. If the weather was like this the whole time, Tanzania might be level pegged/second only to Ethiopia in terms of favourites. 4 days cycling on the dirt. If it gets really wet then the cycling will be hard work. We have cycled 460km in three days, and the totals for the trip so far are 4916km, 29214m ascent. Tomorrow will be the 5000km mark. Day 66 of the trip. Day 45 on the bikes. Currently in my tent listening to the thunder, waiting for rider meeting and dinner. Chocolate consumed today: 0!
