Magical Malawi

Malawi is amazing. So unexpected, but then I had no expectations. I can't believe I am cycling through it. Like Sudan, a country which I never thought I would visit. At primary school I had a penfriend from Malawi- Juliette K. Chiwalo, I think was her name. I think they wrote to school once looking for penfriends. I was at the age when writing and sending letters, and having the associated stationary, was exciting. I think it lasted a year, if that. Anyhow, that was the extent of my experience and knowledge of Malawi until this point. We have had three and a half days of cycling and the one rest day so far. We have moved away from the lake now, heading South West, towards to Zambian border. Apart from the incessant damp of the wet season I cannot complain. We left Chitimba beach at about 6am. The sky a clear blue. The road ran along for 16km between a tall, red cliff face littered with waterfalls, and the lake. Jenna had set off my herself and David wanted to start after us and catch everyone up, so I left by myself too. Tom and I trekked up the sandy path from the hotel to the road, and ended up setting off together. Tom studied Geology at uni, over 30 years ago, hasn't used the knowledge since, but still managed to give me a good documentary of the rocks we were passing, their formation, and the secrets they held regarding the history of the area. At 16km the road turned inland and began to climb steeply up and away from the lake. I enjoy hill climbing, and this was no exception. Providing views along the lake front where we had just come, and then down into the next Valley. 

It was incredibly humid and sweating was unavoidable. Tom and I climbed together, and his geological commentary entertained me for the 600m, 10km ascent. We passed Marty and Neal, and caught up with Alex and Anton. About halfway up the climb the road was blocked by two lorries. The original artic was stopped in the middle to the left of the road with some brown liquid dripping off the back, the second artic had come along and tried to pass artic no.1. It had failed when the wheels fell of the tar and become embedded in the soft sand on the right of the road.

It was incredibly lucky it hadn't rolled down the hill. Bikes and smaller vehicles could pass, however anything wider than a minibus/land cruiser would be at a standstill. It must have been a relatively recent event given that there was no traffic build up when we passed by. We were rewarded for our efforts with a sweeping downhill. Through more lush farmland. Malawi landscapes are filled with lush vibrant greenery, interspersed with earthy reds and browns; a blanket rippling over the hillsides. The skies are ever changing from clear electric blue to evocative shades grey. Part the way down were some roadworks. And the dreaded rumble strips. In fact the road workers, dressed in fluorescent yellow vests. Were using pickaxes to dig up one of the rumble strip patches. I had rather hoped we had left rumblestrips behind in Tanzania. But also, these are twice as long, and not designed for cyclists! My way of dealing with them is to stand and take my hands of the bars- so the bike bounces over then underneath you. Previously you could bunny hop them, now the 4 strips have become about 12, and span atleast 2.5 meters of road. The road to Mzuzu followed the Rhumpi river for the majority of the 135km. It was a gradual ascent all the way. It comprised too many false flats/false downhills for my liking. But we held a steady place. We could hear thunder rumbling somewhere in the distance. Thunder has become almost like background music since hitting Malawi. Often unaccompanied by precipitation, but equally as often accompanied by torrents of the stuff. We stopped in a small bustling viallge for a coke stop. I bought a bread roll and some other baked good and we shared them around. The others had a coke. 

Alistair and Jenna, Aedo and Marty caught us up. Alistair, Jenna and I continued to lunch at our gentle with purpose pace, while Aedo and Tom set off at a gallop. Tobacco plants displaced the fish drying and rice paddies which we had seen further north. 

Malawi was the worlds seventh greatest producer of Tobacco, in 2014.the plants are like bushes with huge oval shapes leaves. One crop is harvested a year. There were some tobacco farmers at the lunch stop. They grow tobacco on their 1.5 acres. The leaves are picked and then hung under a shelter to dry. The greatly resemble fish/kippers hanging in open wooded sheds. 

When dried and crushed, it is sold for $2.60/kg. Their land produces about 800kg. They are happy with this income, but it really emphasises the production and profit pyramid. There is a tobacco auction in Lilongwe which runs from April. Unfortunately we're a little to early to visit this in a few days. Also at lunch were some school kids. Harriet talked to them and had a look at the homework in their books: - will try and get. Copy from her- Not exactly what we learn at school! The afternoon was a Bus afternoon. And very pleasant. We rode in pairs for 10km at the front and then switched. We were hauling about 25km/h and on a slight incline. It felt strong and we flew along. With 20km left to go the wind began to grow. We are getting quite accustomed to reading the weather now. It began to whip around us, and thunder echoed in the background. The skies were darkening as clouds approached from the horizon on the left. It is hard to know exactly when it will hit. In someways it is very localised, and the wave may skirt round you. Other times it crashes right over you with full wrath. Today it was the later. The rain drops began to fall. Lightly at first but picked up momentum within minutes. We had just passed the sign for a lodge, but thought it may pass so continued. Fortunately 200m up the road, just as the heavens truly opened, there was a shop. We pulled in and took shelter. David commented that you have to appreciate good luck whe. You have it. This was definitely one of those times. We hadn't got more than slightly damp, 2 minutes more and we would have been sodden. It was great luck that there had been a store in the middle of nowhere.

Don was also taking shelter, along with many locals. Good for shopkeeper- soft drinks and biscuits provided the boys with some entertainment. Shortly after we arrived Allain pulled in, very wet. We hid out for about 45mins until the storm had passed, and the rain eased. I had left my rain jacket in the lunchtruck, and reluctant to press on even in light rain. Fear of being cold and wet, and practicalities If drying my clothes in the rainy season was a deterrent. The shopkeeper provided me with a ladtix bag waterproof jacket, at my request. I was happy and we competed the last 15km in a damp 30mins.

The only time cycling behind someone is undesirable is when there is surface water. I arrived at camp splattered with brown dots from head to toe, only in the front. Alistairs wheel flicked up all the dirty surface water. Whenever I am in this situation it reminds me of the Razorlight song 'Somewhere Else' and the line - 'catching the sparks that flew from her heels' or something to that effect. Apart from this is muddy road water, and it's from a bike wheel. We were camping at a hotel Mzuzu Lodge. We arrived at about 2pm. There was no Dinner Truck, and therefore no bags of kit, because it was still stuck behind the two trucks we had passed on the hill! There was also. I running water because the lodge had a power cut yesterday- a tree fell over the lie - so they couldn't power the pumps, so there was no water. It was not ideal, but there was nothing we could do, so we hunkered down with some coffee from the lodge and sat discussing the value of gold,the production of creme eggs, and the tobacco industry. According to the internet, tobacco is apparently the only Product which, of used as directed by the manufacturer, is guaranteed to shorten your lifespan. Smoking is actually increasing in prevalence, despite anti smoking campaigns in developed countries. This could be due to expansion into less developed countries? we also speculated about the effect of anti smoking campaigns on the economy of a country like Malawi's, which produces so much. Two hours later the dinner truck arrived. They had sent Steph (staff) on her bike to the nearest village, to find someone with a vehicle to help move the trucks out the way. She had returned with the phone number of a tractor driver. They rang him and he came up. After 2 hours of various attempts, including towing a truck, they ended up placing slot of sand on one side to create a surface that large vehicles May be able to pass around on. In all it took them 6 hours. The only reason a Solution was discovered was because TdA crew on the dinner truck had Found and funded it. Errol picked up a truck driver a few months ago, whose truck had been stuck for 5 days. Errol Gave him a lift to get food, and then he returned to his truck. Apparently the police don't get involved as they need payment, the trucking companies aren't interested as their owned by foreign multinationals. The drivers can't afford to do anything. While roads could be closed for days! Water still not on. Had a cold bucket shower. Hotel provided buffet dinner. Got into a damp tent and sleeping bag. :( not pleasant.