Over the hills and far away.

March 22nd

The profile for today filled me with trepidation. A lot of up, and some down. All day. We haven't really had a day like that yet. It makes it more difficult to manage, essentially you are pacing all day.

I woke up early enough to have a hot shower. That makes it a good start to the day. It was really hot, and powerful. I'm fact, I can't remember the last time we had water that warm. It had rained overnight so the tent was wet, it was a good decision to sleep on the camp bed last night. It was an attempt to keep my sleeping bag drier. Sleeping on a canvas sheet, on the floor of the tent seems to make my sleeping bag more damp. Being on the bed meant I wasn't preoccupied overnight thinking about this. Jenna left pretty promptly, I think she prefers to cycle by herself on the hill days, without the pressure of a group. David was having a lesson on how to clean the front shifter/derailleur as he (like me) has been having issues getting into the lowest chainring at the front. We would be wanting that ring today! Alistair, David and I set out together. The initial plan had been for David and me to pull us up the hills, and Alistair to do the downhills. Playing to our strengths, but it didn't really work out as David was too quick up hill, meaning that he would hang around waiting at the top. The start of the ride actually ended up feeling like a group ride as there were about 10 of us all leap frogging each other, depending on if we were better on the hills or the flats. After about 15km we had spread out. This was where the first 'true' climb began. As it happened Alistair, Steph, Rhett and I ended up together for the morning. True to form Malawi delivered on the scenery and interest front. Despite my hesitation I had a really good day. Huge sweeping vistas of greenery falling away beneath us, on both sides.

The tobacco plantations disappeared with the altitude, in fact the farmland seemed to become more bush/scrubland. Sweeping downhills, straight into the rolling uphill. Unfortunately the rolling uphills were too long to be carried up by the moment of the downhill. Alistair and I took it in turns leading the group, Alistair doing the majority, but I did try to help. I learnt my lesson at one point, gaining speed on the downhill, overtaking Steph who was pulling us, and then finding myself pulling us up the next few hills again. It was good fun. A 'proper cycle'. I have been working on my descents, as they (along with the flats) are my weakest cycle point. It is great to engage the mind, and to feel I am improving. As you approach the top of the hill and the gradient evens out, increase the gearing as you can, not loading it up. As you round the summit, and pick up speed, crank it up. Spin the legs, toes slightly down, drop on to the aerobars. I often keep my legs spinning until I feel they aren't contributing anymore. Then set and go. Topping up occasionally with some pedalling. As you approach the Big Dipper start pedalling again to gain some free mileage back up. 71.3km/h was my max today. My favourite thing on the bike is actually to sit just on Alistairs wheel on the downhill. Great fun. There were very few, if any, sustenance stops (a.k.a coke stops) throughout the day. At about 35km I was getting a bit light headed. Luckily Steph had picked up some biscuits from the tea table this morning (a novel offering from Errol) and we called our own roadside coke and toilet stop. Social acceptability has been redefined on the trip. Namely in the form of acceptable places and levels of privacy for toilet stops, and dinnertime conversation topics. Today's offering saw me venturing down into a very overgrown grassy verge, with nettles and other unknown plants. I was reluctant to go too deeply into the overgrown undergrowth based on similar experiences over the past few weeks, during which I have been stung and scratched and prickled. So, I located a small bush, which could definitely been seen my colleagues and attempted to crouch out of view behind it. This is my prevailing strategy now. Hide behind a small bush, before lowering bike shorts to do business. Davids experience was being reprimanded on safari for peeing by a bush, when there was a perfectly good bathroom! Franks favourite is to cycle 20km from camp in the morning, the pull over for his morning constitutional. Shame is not exisitent now. Back on the bike we powered to lunch. The last 30km were through pine plantations. We cycled past a truck with logs on the back, being towed through the red clay mud by a tractor. It overtook us about 5km later, able to drive itself once on the Tarmac. The small of pine filled the air, it was like a clean bathroom! I was very impressed with us as a group. We arrived at lunch only 15minutrs or so after the fastest riders. Average speed for the 70ish km, with 1300m of climbing was about 20kph! We have all got stronger and developed technique too. Both of these, and the relaxed company, made what could have been an arduous and strenuous morning, enjoyable. I ate /alot/ at lunch- necessary fuel. I often struggle with feeling a bit sluggish on the arvo, if I eat too much at lunch, but given the lightheadedness this morning I didn't want to burn out. We took a bit longer than normal over the affair too, necessary recovery time! There was about 20km of downhill straight after lunch, before the climbing resumed. I was once again developing a headache, slight dehydration I think. The sun was pretty bright too. It seems in the afternoon that it either rains or it is exceptionally sunny...sometimes he latter proceeds the former! We bussed it in the afternoon- Alistair, Jenna and I. Continuing on from our good pace this morning. We bashed out the last 55km and 700m of climbing without even needing to stop. We were rotating around the lead, as each person needed a break. It was a relaxed and enjoyable strategy. There were the token rumble strips which had been plaguing us all morning. They bridge the whole road, and the hardshoulder. Bottles and any unsecured items fly everywhere. My strategy is still to lightly hold/let go of the handlebars and stand up.

We made it to camp by 1pm. Another school playing field camp. Just before the rains. Pitched the fly so I would have a dry patch of ground, and so that after the rain it would dry out. Given that it's the rainy season I am perpetually unpacking a sodden tent and damp sleeping bag and liner.

No showers or bucket showers available today either. The rain was actually welcome as it provided a means to wash other than wet wipes! I stopped under the canopy of the truck, in my bikini, and washed in the water that ran down and off the corner. The rain was hard but lasted about 45mins. The dampness persisted, meaning drying anything completely was impossible. Kids surrounded the camp. It appears lessons happen outside- about 29 children were being taught how to how a field! This morning we saw a group of kids walking to school with hoes- must be a bring your own hoe lesson. Like P.E. you need your own kit! A brief walk into town filled the time before dinner. Strive sourced a hole in the wall selling beer,

and we found some street vendors cooking and seeking or potato chips and fried cassava.

An early night tonight as the darkness and damp descended at about 7pm. No longer are we falling asleep to donkeys, cows and dogs. Tonight it was screaming monkeys, although they sounded alt like birds! 23 March - 108km My tent was saturated, despite there being no rain overnight. Whenever I roused during the night there was a cloudless, starry sky. This morning, as we woke and took down our tents, distant flashes of lightening momentarily illuminated the field, punctuating the more localised flashes of a head torch from the tent next door. As the sun rose a grey overcast ceiling was revealed. Even my inner tent was wet. I had slept with the door open at the top, thinking that it would provide some ventilation. Not sure if this contributed to the wetness or not. When I got in my liner and sleeping bag last night, that too was damp. By the morning it actually felt a bit drier. I wash my hands and they don't even dry properly because everything is damp damp damp. An easy 108km mostly downhill, rewarded us for our efforts of the last two days. We were warned of crosswinds last night, so we set out as a group. The tobacco plantations returned, as did the sunflower fields. Children waving and running along with us. School uniform is not as ubiquitous, or as well manicured, as it was Tanzania and Kenya. I am not sure if education is funded and for everyone, or if it is just for those who can afford it. I imagine the latter, as if money is tight, then children will be needed to work etc. There also appears to be a problem with Child Marriage here. There was an article on the Malawi newspaper campaigning against child marriage, and advising that it needs to be a whole country approach. There was also a school we cycled past whose motto, on the board out the front, was 'Educate me, don't marry me.' We worked in 5km shifts, and averaged about 27km/h. At the moment TdA serve breakfast at 5.30, which has most of us rolling out of camp by 6am at the latest. I don't mind this, it is a bit cooler when you leave earlier, and I find packing my upnin the dark actually just makes me a bit more focussed and efficient. In all the cycle took us 3h55mins. We arrived at lunch (second breakfast) at 8.30. Not very hungry, there was still space for some Nutella! Camp is at a pleasant hotel in a town called Kasungu. Arriving early, with the sun still out, we pitched our tents and hung everything damp out to dry. It turned out I pitched my tent on an ant infested mound, so I relocated within half an hour. We were blessed with a whole day of hot sun. Everything is dry. I am Hoping It continues overnight, but never assume this will be the case. We went or a wander around the town. Essentially a culinary tour of the Main Street. Visiting at least three of their 'supermarkets', one of which was owned/manned by Chinese people. I think we do a culinary tor simply because there is no space for anything else so food is our entertainment. I also bought a paper and some Mortein insect spray. I don't like insects and the insects are getting bigger and more prevalent as we head down south. Tonight my tent will be ant, misquote, crickey, grasshopper....free!

Malawi gets t he award for most entertaining signs and shop fronts still. I am also astounded by the number of Coffin and Tombstone shops. Not justnin one room of the country, but from North to South there are enough to rival Starbucks in New York City. We passed three within 2km of each other the day before yesterday. Is it a reflection of a difference in attitude towards the dead compared to other countries we have been to? Back on the bike for a 'proper' cycle tomorrow. Into Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, for a rest day. Looking forward to getting my clothes washed and having a rest. I was feeling pretty tired physically on the bike today. 

Over 6000km this week, and only 33 riding days left.