The circus keeps moving

Malawi; made for cycling. Smooth roads; engaging scenery; relatively non-life threatening traffic; challenging but manageable, enjoyable elevation; friendly population; enthusiastic children.

Which is your favourite country? An impossible question to answer as they are all enjoyable in their unique ways. Where would I recommend? Tanzania for holidays - there is the Serengeti, Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro. If you're in Tanzania, Malawi is next door. Add another week. I am not sure if Malawi would be such an unexpected pleasure on a bus or in a car, I don't know how much of Malawis magic is only revealed from a bike saddle. Someone will have to visit and let me know... It is with mixed emotions that I wave goodbye to Malawi. Excitement for Zambia, and the prestige and notoriety of Victoria Falls (a landmark city of the trip) mingled with apprehension for the cycling, and sadness that Malawi is already traversed. Yesterday was our last ride of the 4 day stretch from Chitimba beach to Lilongwe. My legs were feeling empty and tired as we started off. I had already said that I would have an easy day, i.e. don't feel obliged to stay, I will drop if you're too quick. Once again a group rallied and the ride was quicker and easier than I had anticipated, far exceeded my expectations.

An elevation of 950m over the morning, steady to 65 and then steeper to 95km. David left later as the ants of the ant infested campsite had invaded his helmet. The contingency was Alistair, Jenna, Steph, Rhett and me. One extra person makes a massive difference. We rotated 5km stretches again. Apparently these are too longer stints for speed, 2km would be better, however Jenna and I like the 5km as they pass the time quickly. I worked out that it meant you spent about 12mins at the front, and then had about 50mins in behind and resting. When I reached lunch I hardly felt like we had done anything. We also reached lunch at 8.30 in the morning! 

It's like being back in Egypt and Sudan, we have renamed it second breakfast. Rhett, Steph's dad, is only here for one section- through Malawi. I have really enjoyed the two days of cycling with him. He is a very strong cyclist, interesting person and approachable. It must be a difficult experience coming in the a large and established group, with routines and unspoken informal alliances. There have been a few sectional riders that have been a similar speed and mentality to me and my cycle crew, it has been thoroughly enjoyable to have them with us, and I am invariably sad that they are leaving so soon. Hopefully Rhett will ride atleast the last day with us in to Cape Town. I am also working on Steve, Sophie's dad, coming to NZ to visit Sophie (who I am trying to persuade to come to NZ on the transoceania tour)! After lunch was largely downhill, with an intermittent crosswind. Lilongwe is the capital of Malawi, and the traffic intensified as we approached the city. It was probably about 40km from the end that the road became busier, but also narrower. It was only a single carriageway road, with no hardshoulder. Having picked up David shortly after lunch we were now riding as a group of 6. That's a lot of cyclists for cars and lorries to sneak past.

Generally the lorries are pretty good, but when they pass fast and close you can really imagine being sucked under the wheels. Pretty sobering vision. I was in the lead for the last 20km to camp. I was distinctly aware that the cyclists behind me would be following my path. I was riding how I would ride in city, how I ride when on the roads in London and Liverpool. Decisively, pre-emptively and clearly. Although I was concerned I would be putting them in situations they were not happy with. We snuck up the inside of slow moving traffic, when traffic stopped we would cross and overtake on the outside. At one point we had to cycle over a traffic island because it was chocca on both sides. There were two men begging on the island, one of them shuffled himself along the pavement out the way, dragging his crutch beside him. I took that to mean it was a phenomenon that he was used to. A lorry pulled out from a t junction, on to an uphill, and struggled to accelerate away. We sat behind them for a kilometre until he pulled over and let us and the line of cars and minivans past. Eventually we made it to the gate, Mabuya Camp. Typical TdA, slightly out of town, at the top of a hill, just past a minivan/bus station (read cyclists worst nightmare, traversing one of these is to take your life in your hands). Minivan/buses have wing mirrors purely for aesthetic reasons, I have never witnessed them being used. They pull in and out with no indication whatsoever, and with a frequency that rivals Donald Trumps twitter updates. There wasn't the usual rush to get to camp to get a room as David and I (cribgworthily) had already booked rooms online. My main drive was to avoid the rain however we have now not had a rainstorm for over 48hours! Word on the street is that as we reach Zambia, we should reach the end of the rainy season. There is still a heavy dew in the mornings, so packing wet tents is a reality- dropping wet, but atleast they can dry in the afternoon. The usual pre-rest say routine. Lie out everything to air and dry, hand in washing, assess the entertainment situation, log on to internet if available, have a drink. This place has a washing machine, the first we have come across in Africa! This bring me great excitement, unfortunately no tumble drier, so I am still unable to wash my sleeping bag. 

My sleeping bag currently smells of wet dog, if coming again I would bring some fabric deodoriser spray that can be used on down jackets and sleeping bags...and a Vanish stain remover stick- for ease of washing. Lilongwe has three supermarkets in the vicinity of each other. Proper supermakerts, with shelves, and fridges, and trolleys, and premarked prices. We have visited this twice in 24hours. We also treated ourselves to an upmarket Italian dinner last night. Party bus night out. Another section done, a cause for celebration.

I let the team down by falling asleep at 9pm, there was a good contingency at the bar until past midnight. Rest day today. Cleaned my bike, properly and vainly. I was getting irritated by he dirt and sand in the cracks and on my handlebars. Looks great now, I wheeled it round to show Alistair - he is probably the only one who would appreciate my efforts. He likes a clean bike too. My bike has done so well, and I feel I owe it a lot, so a little bit of TLC can't go amiss. There is an old town and a new town in Lilongwe. I walked from the camp, through the old town (and market), to the new town. 

It was a pleasant walk. I was getting some cat calls, and men trying to converse (just being friendly I think, but I wanted some quiet time so was rather short). Passed a Rverside car wash, using buckets of river water to clean the cars. 

A lot of greenery, there is a wildlife sanctuary in the centre of town (limited wildlife but a highly recommended cafe). The new city is at the top of a hill, with parliament buildings, a mausoleum and the banking buildings. It was worth the walk, tonhet an impression of the city, but once again I wouldn't make a special trip. The old town is more interesting and vibrant. I also couldn't find a lift for the 8km back to camp, so had to walk back too! Honouring Rest day tradition I found myself in the Lilongwe Wildlife Sanctuary cafe. Coffee, ice cream, comfort and civilisation. Something's never change. 

From secondary school, to uni, to work, to Africa - coffee shop me time seems to be engrained in my psyche. I had been hoping to pick up a bicycle taxi to get home. These are something we have only come across in Malawi. He bikes are old heaving things, wth a padded rack on the back, used as a seat. From what I have read, these used to be common throughout Africa - in Kenya, Uganda and Senegal too- however in many of the other countries tried they have been superceeded by motorcycles. Malawi has a low income per capita and therefore individuals haven't upgraded to the more costly motorcycles. TdA donates a bike for every full tour participant all the way down the continent. We have had 'bike dontation ceremonies' in Ethiopia, Kenya and Malawi. In Malawi 10 bikes were donated to Chadza Community Based Organisation Network. These bikes will be utilised by the community for delivery healthcare, transporting food, and as a taxi service for people to healthcare facilities. In some places, the sick will have to travel over 20km to the nearest healthcare facility, this maybe by motor vehicle, foot or bicycle. Imagine having a troubled labour, and having to travel on the back of a bike for 20km to receive assistance. A very real situation, yet the people here seem so unresentful and cheery.