Booming in Botswana
Best day in Botswana yet.
Monday 9th April Yesterday was a struggle and very much Botswana doldrums. David, Jenna and I set out as the sun was rising, with a crosswind.
David insisted there wasn't much of a wind, I definitely felt that there was a wind and that it was taking more effort to cycle than the day before. His belief that the wind was negligible worked in our favour as it meant that he sat as a wind block for at least the first 40km. Wildlife tally Elephants: 3 Millipede: 1 (huge black caterpillar, atleast 15cm long) Ants: Way too many to count Once again the road was long, straight and flat. There were signs warning of bends, the bends were virtually non existent! 75km to lunch. We played leapfrog with another group cyclists most of the way there. There was a sign at lunch warning of wild animals.
After lunch it was Steph, Jenna and I for most of the afternoon. We had to push our bikes through a foot and mouth disinfection point, and walk over a pad. I haven't yet worked out if this is a control strategy or prevention. I understand Botswana has had foot and mouth but am unsure if the current situation.
The level of the grass either side of the road was much more appeasing after lunch, about a foot high. It meant the horizon was visible! In fact there was a whole region of what felt like open savannah. And the road made a slight curve so the wind was more behind than across.
We had an impromptu stop at 110km under a tree. There was a contingency of ants around our picnic spot. Two types -eeny weeny normal ants and mahusive 2cm long meaty things. They were all busying themselves running around, picking things up and scurrying around. Ants are everywhere. I am looking forward to being free of them. For the second time this trip I had a whole load of ant eggs and ants in bike shoes on the morning...just as well I have some bug spray. We stayed at Nata Lodge last night. It was 7km out of town, past the road we would be going down today, into a headwind. I was getting progressively more tired and grumpy at the fact we were cycling in the wrong direction for our route to Cape Town. True to form there was a dirt road to camp. Camp made up for the tedious day. I think also the tensions of the group were dragging me down. For the first time I spent a lot of time sighing wistfully and wishing I had something other than TdA to occupy my mind with! Camp was dry (unlike the day before), with clean hot and cold showers, a swimming pool, a bar, intermittent wifi/internet. Just a pleasant environment. Tuesday 10th April Sophie had a flex day today, I jumped on the opportunity to cycle with her. We had a dry night- no humidity or dampness, it was great, as was packing away a dry sleeping bag and tent! Since arriving in Botswana breakfast has moved to 6am (later than it was) although we are still armed with head torches and watching the sunrise as we fuel up.
The road today was heading West, and the wind was coming from the South East. There was no long grass, we could see the horizon. While the road was straight and flat the scenery was more interesting. Last year the road flooded and they had to Shuttle the group a few kms through the waterlogged road. This year it was dry, but there were sections of waterlogged grassland either side of the road- the water added an element of interest.
There were some round huts with thatched roofs, unlike the previous days. This is because we are no longer in a national park. The morning passed quickly. We had lunch by a massive Baobab tree.
They have huge swollen trunks and branches, I wonder if it's swollen with water. It looks like a tree on steroids, all oedematous. Once again a female dominated day, the boy racers were at the front again. There had been /another/ plan hatched to stop Neal/pick Neal up and take Him into camp before the original steam train. Jenna joined us after lunch and we cruised for 20km to Planet Baobab. A hotel with a 4000year old Baobab tree and a giant pink aardvark by the road. We pulled in, up 1km of dirt track and entered the bar. It was an oasis in the middle of a savannah. We had quite a long stop, it involved real coffee, ice cream and chocolate cake, proper toilets and a swimming pool. We were probably there for an hour. Back on the road Sophie had her Bluetooth speaker playing tunes. It took us quite a while to get to camp. 6hours 45mins of riding time, 186km. We rolled in st about 3.30. Probably the latest we have got into camp. We stopped a few times in the afternoon - toilet stops, energy stops and at one point Tallis turned up with the Hilux and some very welcome cold soft drinks, a 'rolling refreshment stop'. It didnt feel too hot when we were moving but as soon as we stopped and lost the breeze it was sweltering. Flies
Kept landing on us while we cycled too, and we weren't even slow! Maybe 28-30km/h.
Tonight we are camped st an old construction site. The sky is amazing. We can see the arms of the Milky Way. It is like sitting in a planetarium. Hopefully no more rain until South Africa. No bucket showers in Botswana. Instead I have instigated 'bush bottle showers'. It is a bit risky. Locate a bush somewhat away from camp, remove clothes, use water bottles to jet water and wash. Redress. I am not sure if I have been spied during this wash process nor not. I am prepared to take the risk. 134km tomorrow taking us to Maun for a rest day. Wildlife tally Elephants: 0 Elephant poo: Exceeds ability to count Millipede: 1 Dog: 2, chased by 1 Ants: Not as many as yesterday No shortage of bugs. Normal ants. Giant ants. Moths. Flies. Mosquitoes. Sandflies. Beetles. Bees appeared at Vic Falls.
Jean watches the ants process past the tents with their eggs:
