Namibia is Amazing

So after our 208km day we arrived at the rest camp right on the border, beside the Tranz Kalahari Highway. Pretty tired and fatigued when I woke up, everyone was in the same boat. Marty was particularly suffering as he had been up all night with a fever and queasiness, Don had also been up most of the night with gut upset. It has started getting lighter later, we are now having breakfast at about 6.15 (compared to 5.30 some days!). Was waiting on the coffee this morning too. Marty, David, Alistair and I rolled out as soon as we felt it was light enough…although we were still behind Neal! We had read about there being head winds later on in the day, so were keen to start going and get as far as possible before life go difficult. The first thing I have noticed about Namibia is the fences…after about an hour of riding we were looking for somewhere for a toilet break, but all the bushes were behind fences.

There must be more privately owned land, I am assuming they are privately owned game farms and game reserves The fences are non obtrusive, they don’t interrupt the view, there are large gates - which look like they will keep big animals in - spattered along the fences. The fences essentially run all along the road for 300km to Windhoek. The sky was overcast and i packed my raincoat for the first time in a while. We started with a tail wind, breezing along the undulations (yes the road went up and down!) and staring at the horizon. After about 40km we caught up with Neal at the side of the road, he was hovering around looking conceded and waved us down. ‘Has anyone got any internet?’ I did, but wasn’t really sure why he needed internet when we were riding bikes…. Turns out the bolts on his saddle had worn through and his saddle was no longer attached to the seat post. Not ideal. We tried to botch a repair job with some cable ties, but there really wasn’t alot we could do at the side of the road. Neal is a determined ‘EFI-er’, that is he is pretty determined to cycle the whole way that we can, and not get a lift. We ended up leaving him to cycle to lunch, without a functional saddle. I sent a message to the crew asking if he could borrow a saddle or bike from lunch onwards. EFI is a funny concept. It is starting to become all encompassing for some. Some riders have been determined from the start, others have become more determined the mrs achievable it is, others aren’t bothered at all (the Q (-uitters) club). My impression from the crew is that they would really rather EFI didn’t exist. There are stories of riders demanding IV fluids overnight so that they can ride the next day, riding when really sick. Indeed, on this trip, there have certainly been a handful of riders who have ridden when pretty sick….in a condition that you wouldn’t go to work in. I have found that the more I cycle, and the further I get down the continent, the more attainable EFI appears and the less easy it is to get on the truck when struggling. EFI is largely luck - it relies on no major bike issues, and manageable health issues. TDA have managed the tour well in terms of ensuring the challenge is achievable. To cycle through Africa in 4 months sounds like an unimaginable feat however TDA have broken it down so as I spend an average of 6-7hours on the bike a day. This is irrespective of distance. Distance is shorter when terrain is harder. Distance is longer when terrain is favourable. We were musing last night that if we had a short day now, we would be at a loss for what to do, and bored! Marty was struggling. His speed dropped from 33km/h when we left, down to 25km/h…which he was struggling to maintain, with a tailwind. He had gone ahead while we helped Neal. When we caught him up again he jumped in behind, but really couldn[t hold on. We dropped right down and rode in pairs, tucking him in a corner out the air resistance to try and make it as easy as possible for him to get to lunch. Lunch was in a lay-by at the side of the road. About 20km before we arrived a pick up steamed past us with Neal’s bike hanging out the back! Was pretty surprised! We had the story thrown at us as soon as we arrived! ‘Don’t worry, i’m going back. I showed Tallis my distance. I’m just sorting it and going back. I’ll cycle the distance!’ Unasked, and unprovoked. That’s how all encompassing it becomes for some. We tried to have a short lunch - still was 25mins - again to avoid the wind. Marty couldn’t stomach anything, and stayed at lunch resting for a bit. it was just David, Alistair and I. The afternoon started to drag. It was more of the same. We were in a bush camp this afternoon so there really was no rush to get there. We passed through a town not far after lunch. It was a ‘proper’ town with brick buildings, shopfronts, speed bumps…essentially it felt built up and western. Alistair and David wanted to stop at Shoprite to stock up for the bush camp - soft drinks and chocolate, the necessary fixes.

After lunch we reached our first hill, not sure if I missed them or not! I am definitely out of shape on the hills. David, as per, left us in the dust. By 130km I was struggling. David was pulling ahead at the front, and then I was holding everyone back when I reached the front. The crosswind was pretty strong. I had an Emma tantrum. in which I told them to just go ahead without me and I would see them at camp in 15km. I think I irritated some people in doing that! Poor David had just had his turn at the front, and worked pretty hard, and then I said ‘just go without me’. I had assumed that his speed at the front (24-26km/h) was the speed he wanted to go, and didn’t understand why either of them were sticking with me when they could reach camp earlier (albeit about 10mins earlier). we had a mini hiatus in which we cycled by ourselves for a few km before I apologised for being insecure and difficult to deal with and then we meandered at 23km/h for the last 10km. There was some heavy rain (that’s twice in the last 24 hours…in the Kalahari desert?!) while we were riding but just as we crested a small rise the rain cleared and there was a really nice view. It was a bit like Zambia, but better :) The clouds and the blue of the sky created some atmosphere, the relief provided a view over the valley, the foliage was green, there were enough buildings to provide interest, and there were hills on the horizon! :) Glad I hadn’t rushed to camp. It was probably my least favourite camp in the trip. There was a grassy area to camp on, but it was interlaced with a thorny plant, a sandy area to camp on too - but allegedly this floods when it rains…and very little toilet coverage. I elected to put my camp bed up to limit the pressure on my inner tent, and hopefully minimise damage from thorns. People trickled in all afternoon, I think there was a general fatigue after yesterdays 208km. Aedo brought Martin into camp. He had really deteriorated. Don was lovely, he went and got his camp bed for him and lay him down. Jill (the intern nurse) was there doing a physical exam. Harriet was afternoon sweep so she wouldn’t be in until a bit later. We are losing riders like flies this last section - Karen and Alex (as mentioned before), another rider suffered a crash which has unfortunately written him off for the rest of the tour (not beyond repair though), and now Marty is sick (hopefully just with a gastrobug). Another 164km was an ask, especially with a wind. Luckily there was brownie for dinner, as it’s Jordan’s birthday tomorrow. Another 153km tomorrow, and then 2 days rest. Tuesday 17th April 153km, Bush Camp to Windhoek, and the end of the Elephant Highway section.

Very wet when we woke up this morning. No rain by heavy dew. Errol had also made pancakes/drop scones, and put raisins in the porridge, as a treat (although it has occurred to me that he may simply be using up leftovers before the rest day!). I stuck to my wheatabix, granola and chocolate fix. We had a slow start to the day, once again waiting for the sun to rise. Marty had managed to sleep through the night, but wasn’t riding today. I ma sure he will be disappointed as the EFI thing was quite important to him - he mentioned it to me before we left NZ. Nothing is worth your health though.

I set off with Jenna and Steph. We were going for a ‘relaxed with purpose day’ i.e. not pushing it, but fast enough to get there. The road signs have changed from jumping deer to warthogs. I got pretty excited at the fact I might see a Pumba, and proceeded to spend the rest of the day on the look out. It was cool but not cold, and there was very little wind. It’s funny how even the just the absence of a tail wind can create the feeling of a headwind. Fortunately for me, Jenna sat in front for quite alot of the morning. Most people seemed to be having a relaxed day. Craig, Maurice and Aedo were the usual speed monsters, and I think Tom was partaking too.

There was a coke stop marked at about 45km, we arrived at the same time as Mo, the Tandem and Allain. It was a really nice stop. Recently pretty much all the coke stops have been service stations, or small shops. This was the Namibian to a farm shop. It was a little off the road, with some swings and a seesaw, with a grassy area and picnic bench.

There was a caucasian couple working the shop, I assume they owned it, potentially European. The shop was essentially a little kiosk with various prepackaged foods and camping supplies, they served tea and coffee, but also on the counter they had three boxes of various billings and a tray of circular toasted sandwich type things. She gave us a sample of the various biltong on offer, and a few people bought the toast/pies. They were stuffed with marinated mince beef and onions - apparently very tasty. We sat on the bench with our coffee and various culinary purchases, enjoying the early morning sun and relaxed celebratory atmosphere. We were on day 5 of 5 of a long stint - we will have averages 100miles a day over this section. We were in a new country. Appreciative of the challenge, and basking in the satisfaction of being on the home straight. Anton and Alistair were already there, and David arrived just as we were ordering coffee. Those behind us also pulled in to enjoy the Namibian hospitality.

Back on the road we picked up Mo and rode to lunch at a brisk but comfortable pace. The stop had meant that the temperature was starting to rise. I was enjoying the morning so much. There was no pressure, the scenery was interesting, and the road made turns. Steph described the straight roads of Botswana with the tongue in cheek sentence; ‘the only thing preventing us seeing camp when we leave in the morning is curvature of the Earth’. If my eyesight wasn’t so bad, she may be correct. I hadn’t appreciated how bends in the road contribute to the mental entertainment of travelling down it, until I cycled hundreds of kilometres without a single bend, not so much as a curve! We also picked up John (one of the sectional riders) for the last 10km or so. When we arrived at lunch he thanked us for letting him join, and said it was really nice to experience riding in a group…he would have ridden with us after lunch but I think we dropped him due to speed which is a shame.

Just after I had taken the front, a bit before lunch, a warthog ran across the road! I got so excited, it was maybe 100m in front and darted across with it’s tail in the air…exactly like in Lion King. Disney have characterised them so accurately. Highlight of my morning, and just increased my sentiments towards Namibia.

A leisurely lunch, in keeping with the theme of the day, and then we pushed on to camp. There was an airport at 110km, camp was at 154km. In my mind I had fragmented the day into coke stop, lunch, airport, camp. The stretch to the airport had a short downhill (!) and then was flat, like going through prairie land. We even passed a railway bridge and some streams. The other noticeable difference was cycling past a ranch type establishment with horses, these horses were in paddocks. The whole the way down the continent animals have be loose, or in small wicker pens beside a house. These were in a recognisable fenced paddock, about 10 of them. Another indication of the progression towards a more structured infrastructure.

I may have discussed this previously, I can’t remember!, but we have gradually been moving away from the stereotypical economically deprived, service poor, minimalist Africa. Since Ethiopia there has been a notable but gradual increase in the familiarity of the infrastructure, perhaps with a brief hiatus in Malawi. While this has made life easier, I am not wholly convinced it has made the experience more enjoyable. I know for some members of the tour, the comfort and ease of the anonymous Western ways has enhanced enjoyment, however I am excited by the novelty of the as yet undeveloped world. Bush camps give way to serviced campsites. Pedestrians, camels and donkeys become pushbikes, motorcycles and shared vehicles. Pushbikes, motorcycles and shared transport become privately owned vehicles…and the traffic on the road increases, the presence of people in the streets decreases (and waistlines increase too!). A sense of urgency and importance seems to arise in conjunction with these individualised journeys. Nomadic pastoralism and small scale subsistence farming is superseded by large scale commercial and co-operative farms. Open countryside is fenced. Animals are housed. Communicable disease and poor hygiene are conquered by sanitation, health care and cleanliness. Kids dancing by the road and herding cattle are now wearing uniforms and walking to school Bushes become cubicles, long drops are mounted with a throne, and then a flush is added. The peace of mind of being able to dispose of toilet paper down the pan, rather than the search for a bin and a bucket of water to make the facilities respectable for the next occupant. Powercuts and poor connectivity are inconvenient rather than expected.

By all means I enjoy the convenience of the developed world. I like being able to ‘Google’ what I don’t know. I like being able to talk to those far away. I really appreciate running water and the ability to wash and dry clothes...and myself. Sometimes I am too tired and don’t want to barter for my purchase, sometimes it is nice to know the nature of the exchange without an interaction. I like not having to walk 300m with a shovel, in the rain, and on thorny ground, with a head torch, in the middle of the night just to relieve myself. I am grateful when campsites have working power sockets. I particularly appreciate the ability to be clean and dry that the developed world provides - bricks, concrete, modern building materials may not always be pretty but they provide an ease of living that mud and sticks does not…pavements, roads, walls and shelter.

As we move down the continent and the ease of living has increased I have felt that I am being weaned off Africa and back to reality. Namibia has been no exception. Windhoek has brought a city which could easily be in the UK (ok, maybe not NZ as there is more choice in clothing shops…they even have Accessorize). With the ease of existence also comes a different type of stress. Life feels more urgent, conversation has diminished and efficiency has increased; and I am once again sucked into this treadmill. It begs the question what is quality of life? Quality of life has improved drastically in terms of standard of living (e.g. GDP per capita, public health, education etc) but can quality of life be used interchangeably with standard of living? The WHO defines Quality of Life as “the individual’s perception of their position in life in the context of the culture and value systems in which they live and in relation to their goals.” If this is true, then there are a few elements to QoL - health, finance and contentment. Contentment is hard to provide when society increases as the more people that you are aware of, or interact with, the more disparity you are exposed to…giving way to resentment. This is applicable to the Omo Valley too. There is a phrase, ‘the mind, once expanded, cannot me returned to it’s original dimensions’. In this context, once those in small communities are aware of what others have and what can be, they cannot forget this. Does this decrease quality of life in terms of breeding discontentment. Does being connected, and the internet contribute in the same way? Anyhow, a major aside and rambling.

The afternoon took longer than expected as we had about 500m of climbing in the last 40km. Initally I was struggling, but once I had got into it remembered how rewarding climbing can be, and not just in terms of the downhill at the end! I love Namibia so far; the cycling, the climate, the roads, the views, the wildlife, the people. i don’t welcome the stress of reality that is sneaking in, but am going to bury my head in the sand for the next few weeks.

We have two days off in Windhoek. David and I booked tents with beds and power, which was welcome. i have also booked to get my leg waxed...nothing like some TLC on a rest day! Or maybe I'm just vain, think I am the only female on the trip who is investing in such escapades. :/ Urban Camp is very pleasant, and staying in my own tent would not have been a big ask. We rolled in at 3pm, giving time to sort my things out and dry everything. A lot of the team went round the corner to Joe’s Beerhouse for dinner, including myself. It was a huge establishment, and very busy for a Tuesday night. Essentially it’s a game restaurant, and reminded me a bit of Carnivour in Nairobi. I had a kebab with Springbok, Kudu and Oryx, highly recommended. Even had vegetables too. Good start to the rest day.

Not so good start to the rest day is drowning my phone with a leaky water bottle in a plastic bag on the way back from the restaurant. May mean blog entries diminish. Hopefully it will dry out. Currently it is in a bag of rice. Maybe I will get a new phone. iPhone or Samsung #qualityoflifesuffering!