Naked in Namibia

Tuesday 22 April

Yesterday was the day of the famed 'naked mile'. Sophie was riding sweep and keen to partake and ,as Steph hadn't been feeling very well the day before, we made a group decision to ride with Sophie at he back for the morning. It wasn't so cold this morning, altitude makes a big difference. Still chilly, but not bitter as the day before. We had a very lazy start, waiting for everyone to leave. We even walked up to the Bakery after breakfast and shared another piece of apple pie. I enjoyed the later start as it was a it warmer. We took a right out of camp and were back on the dirt road. The first part was quite a nice ride. Relatively flat, not too corrugated and not soft. We sped along at about 20km/hour. The scenery once again a much appreciated addition. Then the road started to climb and I just felt tired. It wasn't even a big climb, just a steady slight gradient. We stopped at about 20km and decided to do our mile. There hadn't been too much traffic but, predicatably, at this point a couple of tour buses and some jeeps drove past! It wasn't as awkward as I had anticipated. And was actually pretty comfortable. We were at the top of the hill by this point so we had a nice cruise down, albeit corrugated again, to the plateau. We attracted a fair about of attention from the handful of vehicles. Maybe 25-30% of them stopped/slowed to get a better look. A tour bus even stopped in the middle of the road and the driver whipped out his phone to take pictures. There was also a couple standing infront of their land cruiser with big cameras taking pictures and talking to us. We caught up to Catherine and Erin and persuaded them to join us in our escapades. We had 17km left until lunch. I gradually put my clothes back on along the way as I was getting fed up of the voyeurism. Jenna went all the way to 40km. We were last into lunch, which was v relaxed- Ryan was riding the day, so Harriet and Steph were running the show. The last 10km to lunch had been ok, but 20-30k mark were tiresome because of corrugations. Erin and Catherine had enough and rode the lunch truck to camp. We ploughed on, riding our own rides. Once again the first 30km were great. There is a and at the edge of the road most of the time, which is compact and smooth. It does sometimes get soft and you need to be prepared for this, but usually you can go at a decent speed without discomfort or excessive exertion. The temperature was rising. It was definitely cycling in the desert. It reminded me of Death Valley, which I think is in Arizona. The last 13km were horrible. I was getting more and more demoralised. I turned right at a T, off the C road and on to the D. The giant sign informing about potholes should have been the warning. My speed just dropped. What had been 30mins left until the end turned into 45-60mins. I couldn't find anywhere to cycle. There was just no line. It was either incredibly corrugated or such deep sand that it just sucks at your back wheel and pulls you back. Errol drove past me twice while I was struggling. The worst part is knowing that there are another 5 days on this surface still to go. Maurice and Jenna had left lunch just ahead of me and were nowhere to be seen. That just made me feel worse. Clearly I was so slow and rubbish that I couldn't even keep up with those infront. Even if I had stopped to take some photos. I looked behind and could see another cyclist approaching. Great, someone else faster, fitter and more able. What was wrong with me? Or my bike? I stopped to check my tyres, not flat. Everything was as it should be. I carried on. Cars would over take and a cloud of dust would engulf you and the road ahead. Not quite as exfoliating as the sand in Sudan but my technique as they approached became the same. Tilt the head away from them, close eyes as much as possible and bite my lips as they seemed to attract a dusting too. My lips and mouth were so dry. I had drunk 750ml of water in the last 10km. The crosswind turned to a headwind. Mo passed me on the inside. 'This is rubbish,' I cried out 'What's going on?' 'Bad road after three tough days.' She said as she powered past. Hmm, how is she so resilient? I just get demoralised and get slower and slower. I stopped again and had a mental health break and some Muesli cookie. Back on the bike and the settlement appeared in the distance. The directions said 83km, road turns left and camp is on the left. I zigzagged my way up the road, trying to find some semblance of cycle-able ground. One frustration is simply having the wrong bike for the terrain. What is very tough and physically punishing, would be a lot easier with some forgiving suspension and wider tyres. It's silly to bring a mountain bike for 13 riding days out of 89 but it does change the challenge. Riding EFI with Tour d'Afrique is a very different achievement to riding EFI of your own tour. Finally the road turned and the wind changed. I was so relieved to see the Engen garage and finishing flag. I pedalled in, outside the garage were four or five picnic benches crowded with TdA riders sipping rewarding alcoholic beverages and ice cream. I was pretty grumpy by the time I arrived, and worrying about the next 5 days of cycling. Craig pointed me in the direction of camp and I finished my day. The camp is essentially a field with some showers and toilets, and a few lower points, in the desert. It feels like a truck stop. Essentially the settlement, Sesriem, is two lodges, a garage and a campsite built around the gate to the Namib- Naukluft National Park. The lodge has the monopoly - rooms are $350usd/night, buffet dinner is $30usd, balloon ride is $650usd and a car ride to the dunes is $50 per person. There is no internet, well E connection on my phone. There is a group going to the Dunes tomorrow, I am torn as to whether to join or not but have put my name down. I am in need of some timeout. Allain, David and Alistair have been very positive about it, and can't believe I am considering being so close and not going. Apparently it is one of the Lonely Plant Africa 'Must See's'. At the beginning of the trip I would never have considered not going but I am tired now. Having put my tent up and washed my clothes, spent some time at the bar, I headed back to camp. I stopped at the garage dinner supplies - raisins, tuna, mars bar and an Apple. I always seem to develop a migraine type headache the night of a rest day, which means I tend to miss out on the partying. This was the case today. I resigned to my tent at about 6pm. Realised I had no tin opener. I put my hammer to good use and managed to open my tuna tin- it did take about 15mins, but was highly entertaining for me. I feel asleep just after sunset. It amazed me how noisy the middle of nowhere was! There were atleast three different establishments playing music, one being our truck.